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In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized gilded pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Children sit in a rock pool acting as sea nymphs, while adjacent rests a chatting legume in a exhibition box, next to a tall pile of cushions. This is the world of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s highly cherished storytellers. I find myself in the city of Odense, situated in Fyn in the south of Denmark, to explore Andersen’s timeless impact in his home town many decades after his death, and to find a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the town's cultural center celebrating the storyteller, incorporating his first home. A curator states that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For guests who visit this place looking for fairytale wonder, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a primary street, made it possible to rethink how the local celebrity could be celebrated. An international design contest awarded the Japanese company the renowned designers the project, with the curators’ new approach at the core of the layout. The distinctive wooden museum with connected spiral spaces opened to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we avoid discussing the writer, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with humour, satire and outlook,” explains the representative. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for explorers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to give you a sense of smallness,” he explains, a goal accomplished by thoughtful gardening, playing with verticality, scale and numerous twisting trails in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

He authored several memoirs and frequently changed his story. The exhibition adopts this philosophy seriously; often the perspectives of his acquaintances or snippets of letters are presented to gently question the writer's personal account of events. “The writer is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the curator. The effect is a fascinating rapid journey of his personal story and work, thought processes and best-loved stories. It is thought-provoking and fun, for mature visitors and kids, with a bonus underground make-believe land, the fictional village, for the children.

Discovering the City

In the actual city, the compact town of Odense is delightful, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings colored in cheerful shades. The writer's influence is everywhere: the street signals show the writer with his iconic characteristic hat, bronze footmarks provide a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this focus reaches its height with the regular HC Andersen festival, which celebrates the author’s legacy through visual arts, performance, stage shows and melodies.

Recently, the week-long event had numerous performances, the majority were free. During my time in Odense, I come across artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator narrating adventures. I listen to empowering poetry and see an amazing evening show with graceful performers lowering from the city building and dangling from a construction equipment. Still to come this year are lectures, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the storytelling legacy past the author, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.

All good enchanted locations deserve a palace, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to get about in the city and a “bicycle route” meanders through the downtown area. Departing from the local hotel, I cycle to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a loop around Stige Island, a compact territory linked by a road to the mainland. Local inhabitants picnic here after work, or take pleasure in a quiet hour fishing, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

Returning to town, I eat at a local eatery, where the food selection is inspired by the writer's motifs and narratives. The literary work the patriotic piece is featured at the restaurant, and manager Nils Palmqvist recites passages, presented in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience commonplace in my days in the city, the island inhabitants appreciate narratives and it feels as though sharing tales is continuously available here.

Castle Explorations

All good fairytale destinations need a palace, and the island contains numerous historic homes and manor houses around the area. Traveling briefly from town, I visit Egeskov Castle, the continent's finely maintained Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his spouse, the royal resident. I contemplate if she might sense a pea through a mound of {mattresses